Welcome

On my recent trip to Burgundy I was struck by the number of producers who have converted to Biodynamic viticulture. Ten years ago you would have been lucky to run into one adherent to biodynamie. Now it is widespread. Over half of the growers that I visited are either biodynamic or in the process of conversion. It is a subject that fascinates me. Whether you are a believer or a sceptic, you cannot help but be impressed by the overall quality of biodynamic wines.

I feel that it is an interesting topic, and I am now undertaking research to try and fully comprehend the nuances of the philosophy, with the aim of producing a comprehensive report on the subject.

I have just returned from a week touring the vineyards of Washington and Oregon. This beautiful, and little known, wine region is currently producing some fantastic wines. It is a relatively new wine producing area, with the majority of plantings taking pace over the last thirty years. The two states are very different. Most of Washington's vines are planted in the arid land east of the cascades. The countryside is hot and parched, with acres of sagebrush and little else. However, with irrigation, available via the Columbia River and the numerous streams that run down from the Cascades and the Blue Mountains, other crops can be grown in ideal conditions. Cereals and fruit are the major crops, but vines are becoming increasingly numerous. Eastern Washington is divided into a number of AVA's (American Viticultural Areas). Amongst these I was most impressed by wines from the Red Mountain AVA, notably wines from Hedges Family Estate, and Walla Walla, where L'Ecole 41 produces some superb variants on the Bordeaux theme. Bordeaux varietals dominate the region, but they are not exclusive. There are some excellent Syrahs and Italian varietals, and it is here that Ernie Loosen has elected to produce a top flight Riesling. Ernie's expertise, gained in the Mosel, has transferred seemlessly to Washington State, and hi Eroica is well worth looking out for.

In contrast, winemaking in Oregon is centred in the Willamette Valley, which lies to the west of the Cascade range. Here Burgundian varietals rule. Not surprisingly, it is a Burgundian that is currently leading the way in this area. The Beaune firm of Joseph Drouhin have established vineyards in the Willamette, and they are producing a range of sublime wines, crafted by Veronique Drouhin, who represents the fourth generation of winemakers in the family. The wines show characteristic finesse and elegance, and while they are different to the company's burgundies, they do bear a familial similarity. I would rate them on a par with the best Burgundian Premier Crus. While I was there I was fortunate to spend a morning with one of the pioneers of the Oregon wine industry. Myron Redford was one of the first of the new wave of winemakers who moved into the Willamette in the 1970's. Myron's approach is somewhat quirky "Most winemakers will tell you they selected a site for its aspect or microclimate. I just bought this one cos I liked the view". Myron's wines show the potential of the region's wines. We tasted a 1988 Pinot Noir that was still vibrant and full of fruit, with secondary flavours and aromas just beginning to show through. A fuller resume of the tour will follow shortly. Meanwhile if you want to get to know the Drouhin wines better, I have secured a few cases of Veronique's wines, go to Domaine Drouhin Offer.

The current economic climate is hitting the wine industry. Having increased the appellation, producers in Champagne are now finding that the market is shrinking, and they are in danger of overproducing. This explains the glut of cut-price champagnes currently littering the supermarket shelves. The market is tough for everybody, but this means there are bargains to be had for the consumer. News

Arblaster & Clarke

Fantastic New World wine tours for 2010. In November I will be leading a tour to the winelands of South Africa. Also vineyard walk in Alsace - Oct 2010 and Burgundy & Beaujolais - Oct 2010.