Welcome

On my recent trip to Burgundy I was struck by the number of producers who have converted to Biodynamic viticulture. Ten years ago you would have been lucky to run into one adherent to biodynamie. Now it is widespread. Over half of the growers that I visited are either biodynamic or in the process of conversion. It is a subject that fascinates me. Whether you are a believer or a sceptic, you cannot help but be impressed by the overall quality of biodynamic wines.

I feel that it is an interesting topic, and I am now undertaking research to try and fully comprehend the nuances of the philosophy, with the aim of producing a comprehensive report on the subject.

Just returned from the Ay Festival, which was hugely enjoyable. I visited a number of Champagne houses. Champagne Tarlant, based in the village of Oeuilly, in the Marne Valley. Benoit Tarlant gave a fascinating talk on the soils in his vineyards. They are far more diverse than we are lead to believe. All the books just talk about champagne consisting of chalky limestone soils, but Benoit has sand, clay and limestone in varying proportions. Some of the soils are so sandy that he is able to plant vines on their own rootstock, without having to worry about phylloxera. His wines are extremely powerful and, I have to say, a little uncomprimising. No dosage, no malolactic fermentation and barrel fermented. He is using elements of biodynamic farming. A truly interesting and passionate guy. Goutourbe, in Ay, continue to produce great value, Pinot Noir based wines. These are full-bodied champagnes made to accompany food. Champagne Andre Jaquart, based in Vertus on the Cote des Blancs, are definitely producers to look out for. Since Marie Doyard and her brother took over the domaine in 2004, they have reinvented the brand. All pure Chardonnay, apart from the rosé, these are wines of stunning elegance and complexity. Better than champagnes selling for twice the price. I also saw my old friend Philippe Brun. His rosé seems to get better everytime I visit.

The current economic climate is hitting the wine industry. Having increased the appellation, producers in Champagne are now finding that the market is shrinking, and they are in danger of overproducing. This explains the glut of cut-price champagnes currently littering the supermarket shelves. The market is tough for everybody, but this means there are bargains to be had for the consumer. News

Following the election and the arrival of our new coalition government, I had the pleasure of a trip around Burgundy with David Blunkett. It was incredibly interesting to get an insider's view of the mechanics of government from somebody who had been a key player in the Blair government. Away from politics Mr Blunkett is a huge Burgundy fan, with an excellent knowledge of the region's wines. He was an interesting companion, and you can read more about the tour in a forthcoming article he is writing for the Times.

I have managed to source two of the best wines I tasted in New Zealand earlier in the year. Kumeu River's Hunting Hill Chardonnay and Ata Rangi's Crimson Pinot Noir. These are both fantastic wines that show just what New Zealand is capable of. For more details or to order, go to NZ Wine Offer.

My trip to Washington and Oregon is getting close, and I am really looking forward to it. I tasted through all the offerings from the Pacific North West during the London Wine Trade Fair, and I think the standard is improving all the time. There is now greater diversity in the region, and a number of interesting new producers are appearing. Ten years ago the region consisted of interesting boutique wineries, but now there are good wines at all levels. I see that the Co-op is now offering wines from Washington at around £7-8 a bottle. Hopefully we will see more of these wines in multiple retailers in the near future. At the other end of the price scale, producers such as Hedges are making truly complex, characterful wines.

Forthcoming tastings and Events

Arblaster & Clarke

Fantastic New World wine tours for 2010. Explore Washington and Oregon, and South Africa.