Alsace is something of a viticultural mine field. In its complexity it has been compared to Burgundy. The secret here is to find producers you can trust, and stick with them. In recent years I have spent a considerable amount of time in the region, and a number of winemakers have proved to be consistent producers of great wines. The firm of Hugel & fils, based in the picturesque village of Riquewihr, are probably the region's best ambassadors. I have chosen a selection of wines from Hugel that demonstrate the power and elegance that the region's wines can attain.
Hugel et Fils
Hugel "Gentil" 2008
Maintaining the Alsace tradition of blending noble varietals, this is a blend £121.10 per case
of Gewurz, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Muscat and Sylvaner. This gives a wine with body and a
hint of spice, coupled with finesse and racy acidity.
Hugel Riesling 2008
Elegant and distinguished Riesling, with concentrated minerality, balanced by lime £160.00 per case
acidity. Great with seafood or chicken.
Hugel Riesling "Jubilee" 2004
Only made in exceptional vintages, this wine displays great concentration, elegance £318.45 per case
and finesse. It is just beginning to develop complex secondary characteristics.
Hugel Gewurztraminer 2008
Aromatic, with a gentle spiciness. Rich tropical fruit is undercut by minerality and fresh £169.88 per case acidity. Perfect with oriental cuisine.
Hugel Gewurztraminer "Jubilee" 2006
Exceptional Gewurz, ripe tropical fruit is overlain with exotic spices. Rich, yet perfectly £286.38 per case
balanced, this is drinking beautifully now, but will keep for years.
Domain Josmeyer
Domaine Josmeyer is a biodynamic prodcer, based in Wintzenheim. Under the stewardship of Christophe Erhart, the company produces wines from old vines, which, when farmed biodynamically, produce complex wines with tremendous mineral intensity. This is fast becoming my favourite estate in Alsace.
Pinot Blanc "Mise du Printemps" 2008
Lively and fresh, with delicate floral aromas giving way t soft peachy fruit and citric acidity. £185.40 per case
Riesling "Le Kottabe" 2007
Intense floral notes, with a hint of varietal character on the nose. Generous fruit £222.50 per case
balanced by crisp, clean acidity. Concentrated and very long.
Pinot Gris "Le Fromenteau" 2008
Tropical fruit and a touch of "sous bois" on the nose. Powerful, with luscious ripe, £244.80 per case
fruit character overlain with an earthy intensity. Great length and power. Medium dry.
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