Greek Odyssey
This was really going back to where it all began. Sailing around the Greek Islands exploring the wine regions that originally gave wine to the world. Greek civilisation influenced much that is best in western civilisation, but its contribution to winemaking is largely forgotten. My aim in touring the Greek Islands was to show that there ismore to Greek wine than Retsina. The tour was but together by Arblaster & Clarke Wine Tours, who have considerable experience in combining wine tourism with sailing. They recruited the services of the magnificent tall ship, “Star Clipper”, to be our home as we travelled the “wine-dark sea”.
Any rustic images of browning retsina, served from a mouldy looking cask, were dispelled on arrival at the winery of Domaine Helios in the Peleponnese. The “state of the art” winery is the result of the vision of Greek engineer George Kokotos and his English wife Anne. The multi-million Euro winery would not feel out of place in Napa Valley, and the wines on show could hold their own in any international wine tasting. In a way that is typical of the atmosphere of cooperation that exists between most of this new wave of Greek wine producers, Anne had arranged a mini wine fair for our visit, and was showing the wines of her neighbours, and rivals.
There are over 300 grape varieties that are indigenous to Greece, and for me this is part of the excitement of the country’s wines. Certain grape varieties are clearly suited to particular regions of the country, and now, with proper handling, a number of varieties are emerging as being truly world class. The region of Nemea in the north-east of the Peloponnese is one of the leading wine regions and some varieties are making the region their own. I feel that for reds the finest varietal is Agiorgitiko, followed by Mavrodaphne, with Roditis and Moschofilero as the standout white varieties.
Domaine Helios concentrates its emphasis on wines made from these traditional Greek grape varieties, grown in Nemea or the neighbouring region of Mantinea. The latter provides the fruit for the domaine’s award winning white – Oreinos Helios. The 2008 Oreinos, made from a blend of Moschofilero (90%) and Roditis, won a gold medal at this years International Wine Challenge. It displays a distinctive rose-petal aroma (typical of Moschofilera), a rich minerality and refreshing cirtric acidity. Equally impressive is the Oreinos Helios Red 2007, made from pure Agiorgitiko grown on the high slopes of Nemea. It has tremendous depth of colour, and is packed with rich plummy fruit and velvet smooth tannins. Several months ageing in French oak casks has added a spicy complexity to the wine, which is drinking nicely now but will improve over the next two or three years.
