New Zealand Feature Con't

Stoneyridge nestles in the sheltered Onetangi Valley, with a warm meso-climate. This warmer, drier environment gives wines with a richness and power not often found in cool-climate wine regions. This has enabled Stonyridge to really build a reputation on blockbuster reds. The winery produces excellent Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, but it is the Bordeaux and Rhone style reds that really excite the imagination. Summer’s enthusiasm for the Luna Negra 2006 was shared by all at the tasting. This is 100% Malbec (probably the only one in New Zealand), and it has a rich, earthy intensity. Dark and brooding, its black berry fruit is overlain with a hint of spicy vanilla, courtesy of its time in American oak. The Pilgrim 2006 is a Rhone look-alike, a blend of Syrah, Mourvedre and Grenache. This showed succulent cherry and blackcurrent fruit, with chewy tannins and a hint of nuttiness on the finish. Our last wine in this tasting was the amazing Stonyridge Larose 2007. This is still incredibly young, but Summer had decanted bottles earlier in the day. It is one of New Zealand’s great red wines. A Bordeaux blend, it shows deep, ripe, cassis flavours overlain with cedary oakiness. On the late palate there is a touch of spice and a hint of earthyness and bitter chocolate. This is a hugely structured wine, with firm ripe tannins, and should, ideally, be kept for another 15 years. Fantastic wine!

Back on the mainland, and heading south, I arrived in Hawke’s Bay and what has to be one of New Zealand’s quirkiest wineries. Esk Valley Estate is the boutique operation owned by New Zealand giants Villa Maria. Villa Maria are proof that big can be beautiful, and the way the Esk Valley operation is run is hugely to their credit. Winemaker Gordon Russell is given a free hand to produce small volume, high quality wines using techniques that are very dfinitely “Old World”. In every other New Zealand winery you will see line upon line of shiny stainless steel tanks. Gordon prefers to stick to the estates old, open topped concrete fermenters. These are used for all his red wines, which are punched down regularly to extract maximum colour, and flavour. His whites are made in a more conventional manner, utilising temperature controlled ferments etc.

Hawke’s Bay is protected from the cool southerly winds, and its warm meso-climate again gives power to the region’s wines. Gordon’s Black Label Sauvignon Blanc is one of the best New Zealand Sauvignons that I have tasted. It lacks the aggressive, green character so prevalent further south in Marlborough. Instead it has ripe tropical fruit, with a slight herbaceous edge, and refreshing lime acidity. This is a food wine, that has more versatlity than its Marlborough counterparts. I also loved the off-dry Riesling, which has a hint of resisual sugar balanced by refreshing citrussy acidity.

Gordon’s reds are all pretty muscular, deep coloured and intense. I particularly liked his Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec Black Label, 2006. The fruit for this comes from the famous Gimblett Gravels. This is a region of very dry, warm, infertile gravels that, until recently, were thought to be of no use for anything other than quarrying. In fact they are superb for viticulture, giving small crops of powerfully intense fruit. The 2006 has delightful vibrant blackberry fruit, with a suggestion of plums, and underlying touches of cassis and herbs.

Outside the old winery runs a series of narrow terraces, planted with Malbec, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. The different varieties are planted randomly along the terrace. From this field blend Gordon crafts one of New Zealand’s great red wines – called simply The Terraces. Only produced in great vintages, the 2006 is powerful, yet has elegant. Sappy, soft red fruit is overlain with classic “pencil shavings” oakiness. Rich, ripe tannins give structure to a wine that will keep for years. A classic!

The wines of Hawke’s Bay are truly worth seeking out. I could happily of stayed longer tasting the wines and taking in the art deco charms of Napier, but I had to continue south in search of great New Zealand Pinot Noir.

To be continued….

If you would like to buy any of the wines mentioned above, please contact me…

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